Posts tagged ‘umani ronchi’
Orlando Pecchenino, Dogliani, with a bottle of his 2010 Bricco Botti, one of 2013’s best Italian wines (Photo ©Tom Hyland)
January always means starting fresh as well as remembering what came before. So it’s time for my annual look at the best Italian wines of 2013, but instead of offering a complete list (that will be printed in the Spring issue of my Guide to Italian Wines, available to paid subscribers), I’m going to take a different approach and focus on just a few wine zones that were home to some pretty special wines, offerings that don’t get a lot of attention.
Dogliani – I adore Dolcetto and I’m on a constant crusade to tell wine lovers about this lovely wine; I know why it doesn’t sell as well as it should, but it doesn’t help that the major wine publications ignore this wine. In the small village of Dogliani, a bit south of the Barolo zone, a small band of dedicated producers specialize in the Dolceto grape and craft marvelous versions, wines that have more richness and age worthiness than examples of Dolcetto d’Alba or Diano d’Alba. That said, I visited several producers in Dogliani this past September and tasted four examples of Dogliani that were outstanding: the 2010 Pecchenino “Bricco Botti”a wine that has tremendous complexity and character; the 2012 Chionetti “San Luigi”, a wine of great varietal purity and focus and one of the most delicious red wines I tasted in all of Italy this past year; the 2009 Anna Maria Abbona “San Bernardo” from 65-year old vines that offers abundant floral aromas backed by tremendous persistence and finally the 2004 San Fereolo Dogliani Superiore from proprietor Nicoletta Bocca. Here is a current release – yes, a nine year-old (now almost ten) Dolcetto of superb breeding that will drink well for another 5-7 years. Wines such as this one and the others I mentioned are evidence that Dolcetto can be a first-rate wine; it’s a shame that more wine publications ignore this lovely grape.
Verdicchio (Photo ©Tom Hyland)
Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi – Speaking of grapes that are largely ignored, Verdicchio is at or near the top of this list. Here is a grape grown in Marche that has uncommon complexity and can age – given the proper care at any particular cellar in the best vintages – for 7-10 years and even longer in some cases (I tried a 1991 Verdicchio from the excellent cooperative producer Colonnara a few months ago that was superb and still quite fresh). So why don’t you hear about this wine more often? Simply put, the major wine publications focus on red wines, especially in Italy, so Verdicchio is priority number 35 (or is it number 36?) for their editors.
The best new releases of Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi I tasted were the 2012 Umani-Ronchi “Casal di Serra”, the 2010 “Vecchie Vigne” (old vines) version from this vineyard and the marvelous 2009 Umani-Ronchi “Plenio”, a Verdicchio of outstanding complexity with ideal balance.
Also, the 2009 Villa Bucci “Riserva” is one of the finest versions of this wine I have ever tasted; given the fame and outstanding track record of this producer, that’s saying something. With its heavenly orange blossom and hyacinth perfumes as well as pronounced minerality, this is a brilliant wine, easily one of the finest of the year. Look for this to be at its best in 5-7 years, although I may be a bit conservative in my estimate.
At Santa Barbara, the 2011 Stefano Antonucci “Riserva” is a heavyweight Verdicchio, a barrique-aged version that is lush and tasty with tremendous complexity; while I often prefer Verdicchio not aged in small barrels, here is an example that is perfectly balanced. A different approach can be found in the 2009 Stefano Antonucci “Tardivo ma non Tardivo” (loosely translated as “late but not too late” in reference to the late harvesting of the grapes); this is aged solely in steel. This is as singular a Verdicchio as I have ever tasted, given its exotic aromas of grapefruit, green tea and a note of honey, while the minerality and structure remind me of a Premier Cru or Grand Cru Chablis. Un vino bianco, ma che un vino!
Sabino Loffredo, Pietracupa (Photo ©Tom Hyland)
Campania white wines - This is such a vibrant region these days for all of its wines, not just Taurasi, its most famous red, but also other distinctive wines such as Palagrello Nero and Casavecchia. Then there are the whites – wines of great varietal distinctiveness, minerality and structure. 2012 was a first-rate vintage for Campanian whites, as the wines have beautiful focus, lively acidity, excellent ripeness, lovely aromatics (thanks to a long growing season) and distinct minerality. I’ve loved these wines for years and it’s been such a pleasure to see the results from two superb vintages, such as 2010 and 2012.
There were so many gorgeous 2012 Campanian whites; I can’t list them all, so here are just a few of the best: Pietracupa Greco di Tufo and Fiano di Avellino - from the brilliant producer Sabino Loffredo; Feudi di San Gregorio Greco di Tufo “Cutizzi”; Mastroberardino Fiano di Avellino “Radici”; Donnachiara Greco “Ostinato” and Villa Raiano Greco di Tufo “Contrada Marotta”. A wonderful collection of whites, drinkable now and over the next 5-7 years.
Chianti Classico - Every year, more and more of these wines taste the same to me. There are exceptions of course, those wines from producers that still craft offerings that reflect a sense of place, rather than just producing bottles aimed at a large audience. The two best I tried in 2012 were both Riserva wines from the very underrated 2008 vintage. The first was the Felsina “Rancia”, a wine of great strength with very good acidity and notable structure. The second was the Bibbiano “Vigna Capannino”, also a beautifully structured wine that represented to me what a top Chianti Classico Riserva should be, a wine with richness of fruit, not just a higher percentage of oak; of course there is admirable Sangiovese character, but there is also very good acidity, meaning this is a wine that will age gracefully, with peak in 10-12 years. The Felsina is a more powerful wine, while the Bibbiano is more delicate, but both are first-rate versions of what this wine type should represent.
Looking south from Appiano at vineyards in Alto Adige (Photo ©Tom Hyland)
Alto Adige whites – Alto Adige, being a cool climate region, is of course known for its white wines, but I wonder how often wine lovers think about how special these wines truly are. The regular bottlings are quite nice, with very good acidity and balance; the wines are also quite clean, beautifully made with excellent varietal character. Then there are dozens – no make that hundreds – of vibrant Alto Adige whites that have excellent depth of fruit, distinct minerality and gorgeous complexity. A few of the best from include the 2012 Cantina Tramin “Stoan”, a blend of Chardonnay, Sauvignon, Gewurztraminer and Pinot Bianco that is as complex and as satisfying as any Italian white (or a white from just about anywhere); the 2012 Gewurztraminer “Nussbaumer” also from Cantina Tramin (this is one of Italy’s top 50 producers, in my opinion), a wine of heavenly grapefruit, lychee, yellow rose and honeysuckle aromas backed by excellent concentration and subtle spice; the 2012 St. Michael-Eppan Sauvignon “Sanct Valentin”, with great varietal character – what a lovely wine for vegetable risotto or most seafood; the 2010 Cantina Terlano Pinot Bianco “Vorberg” Riserva, one of Italy’s most distinctive white wines, and finally, the 2012 Girlan Gewurztraminer “Flora”, a version of this wine that is not as explosive as the Tramin “Nussbaumer”, but one that is just as attractive and varietally pure.
Estate vineyards of Ferrari near the town of Trento (Photo ©Tom Hyland)
Trento Metodo Classico – You could be forgiven if you weren’t very familiar with classically-produced sparkling wines from Trentino. After all, Prosecco is much-more famous as an Italian bubbly and the great wines of Franciacorta in Lombardia generally receive more attention. Still, the cool area near the town of Trento is ideal for beautifully structured sparkling wines, especially when made by the firms of Ferrari and Maso Martis.
There has been so much written about Ferrari- what marvelous sparkling wines they produce! The finest I tasted this year were the 2006 Perlé Nero, a 100% Blanc de Noirs with excellent concentration and beautiful complexity and then for a rare treat, the 1994 Giulio Ferrari “Riserve del Fondatore”; this latter wine was a special, extremely limited wine that was disgorged in 2011, meaning it spent 17 years on its yeasts – an unheard of length of time for almost any sparkling wine. Words can’t do this cuvée justice – this is simply an ethereal sparkling wine, one of tremendous length, with exotic flavors of orange, truffle and even a hint of cream – just amazing!
It may be difficult to compete – if that’s the proper term – with Ferrari, but the husband and wife team of Roberta and Antonio Stelzer do their best. Try their wines and you’ll see what I mean, as these sparklers are so beautifully balanced and such a joy to consume. Everything here is excellent, particularly the full-bodied 2007 Brut Riserva Millesimato and the stunning 2003 Madame Martis, with its appealing honey, cream and apple tart aromas and oustanding persistence.
Verdicchio grapes ready for harvest (Photo ©Tom Hyland)
Here is part three of my favorite wines from my recent Italian trip; this installment is about the best white wines from Marche.
When you talk about white wines from Marche, it’s all about Verdicchio. There are sparkling versions – (some quite, quite good), dry versions, dessert styles and maybe most importantly, older bottlings. I say this as Verdicchio is among the white wines that has the greatest aging potential, not only in Italy, but anywhere (and this includes white Burgundies). I’ll write a post about Verdicchio soon – the wonders of this grape, why it isn’t better known, et al soon, but for now here are notes on a few of the best I recently sampled in the area.
Villa Bucci has become for many, the most famous producer of Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, a Verdicchio from a beautiful, gently hilly area in northern Marche (there is another Verdicchio DOC – Verdicchio di Matelica – that is also quite expressive). The classic 2012 version (2012, as I’ve mentioned in previous posts, is an excellent vintage for white wines throughout Italy), is a beauty, with aromas of acacia flowers, Bosc pear, jasmine and spearmint (the perfumes of a young, unoaked Verdicchio are irresistible) backed by very good depth of fruit, good persistence and very good acidity. Enjoy this over the next 3-5 years.
The Riserva Villa Bucci 2009 is outstanding; matured for two years in older barrels, there is a light creaminess in the aromas that accompany notes of hyacinth and orange blossom – just lovely! Medium-full with excellent concentration, this has outstanding persistence, a long, long finish and lovely finesse. What an outstanding wine! I also tasted three older vintages of this wine: the 2008, 2007 and 2004, each of which was excellent ,with the 2004 offering the greatest complexity, but the 2009 was in my judgment, the finest of all these wines. Look for this wine in a few months, as this continues the ultra impressive track record of this producer with this beautiful wine.
Stefano Antonucci (Photo ©Tom Hyland)
Somehow the wines of Stefano Antonucci from Santa Barbara are not that well known in America; this is a true shame, as these are some of the most vibrant, most distinctive examples of Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi being produced today. I tasted previous vintages in 2012 when I was writing my book on Italian wines and was very impressed, especially with the 2010 Stefano Antonucci Riserva, one of the finest examples of Verdicchio I have ever tasted. The new releases did not disappoint, starting with the 2012 Verdicchio “Le Vaglie,” which is highly aromatic (lilacs, Anjou pear, jasmine), with beautiful varietal focus and is absolutely delicious! For an Verdicchio that runs about $15 retail in the States, this is a steal!
The 2011 Riserva, is richer on the palate and has some oak influence, although there is so much fruit, you might not even notice the wood. The mid-palate is quite lush and there is outstanding persistence; although 2011 was not as acclaimed a vintage as 2010 or 2012, here is proof that the producer is always more important than the vintage. This is beautiful now, but if you can wait another year or two, it will greatly improve and it should peak in 7-10 years – an outstanding wine!
One of the most consistent producers of Verdicchio is Umani-Ronchi; they have received the Tre Bicchieri award from Gambero Rosso on several occasions and their 2009 “Casal di Serra Vecchie Vigne” was named Italy’s Best White Wine of 2012 from this same publication. I tasted te 2010 version of this wine and it is rock-solid with appealing golden apple and spearmint aromas backed by excellent depth of fruit. The wine that really impressed me was the 2009 Verdicchio Riserva “Plenio”; produced from a single vineyard. The name comes from the Latin word for “full,” an apt descriptor for this wine, which is partly aged in steel tanks and partly in large barrels; about 10%-15% of the wine undergoes malolactic fermentation. What a wine this is! Medium-full with excellent concentration and a rich mid-palate, there are aromas of spiced apple and golden flowers along with very good acidity and excellent complexity. 2009 was a marvelous vintage for Verdicchio as the wines are quite rich – in some cases, such as this one, almost fat on the palate – and there is also a distinct minerality to this wine. This was an eye-opener for me; Umani-Ronchi is a large producer, but give enough attention to your wines and source grapes from the finest sites and you can produce great wines; this 2009 Plenio is an example of that; this should peak in 5-7 years, although I may be a bit conservative with that estimate.
A few other examples of Verdicchio of note that I tasted this past September in the area. Sartarelli is a notable producer; their entry level Verdicchio is quite good. Most impressive is the 2010 Balciana, made from late harvest grapes; offering exotic aromas and excellent persistence, this will drink well for another 5-7 years.
From Garofoli, headed by the gracious and always smiling Daria Garofoli, the 2011 “Podium” and the 2006 Gioacchino Garofoli Selezione” are both excellent; the former a first-rate example of Verdiccchio with a rich mid-palate and the latter, a marvelous wine with cinnamon and spice flavors from oak aging; this will drink well for another 5-7 years.
Finally, a shout out to Colonnara, an excellent cooperative producer in Cupramontana, one of the most historic sites for Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, a thank you for a marvelous vertical tasting of their Cuprese bottling. The current 2012 release offers lovely jasmine and lemon zest aromas along with very good depth of fruit and lively acidity; look for this wine to drink well for several years.
I also tasted this wine from the 2010, 2001 and 1991 vintages- each was quite special. The 1991 Riserva – now some 22 years old – was in great condition, with notes of honey and orange blossom in the aromas; displaying marvelous texture and excellent complexity along with vibrant acidity, this is a great wine! It’s also exhibit number one, in my opinion, of how well Verdicchio ages.