Posts tagged ‘roberta stelzer’
Milena Pepe, Tenuta Cavalier Pepe (Photo ©Tom Hyland)
For my first post of 2014, I was all set to list my favorite Italian wines of 2013, but before I do that, I thought I’d tell you a bit about a few of the people that make these wines. They’re among my favorite people in Italy and they have always treated me graciously, especially during my trips – six in all – during the calendar year of 2013. So here are images – and a few words – about some of my favorite people in the wine industry in Italy.
Milena Pepe, proprietor, Tenuta Cavalier Pepe, Sant’Angelo all’Esca, Campania – Milena is a beautiful woman and also one of the most positive, outgoing people I’ve ever met anywhere in the world. I don’t care how bad a mood you’re in – if you spend ten minutes with this woman, you’ll come out with a smile on your face. Try her 2012 Greco di Tufo “Nestor” and you’ll admire the wines she oversees here as well.
Alessandro Locatelli, Rocche Costamagna (Photo ©Tom Hyland)
Alessandro Locatelli, proprietor/winemaker, Rocche Costamagna, La Morra – I’ve known Alessandro about ten years and in all that time, he’s always remained down-to-earth; his success hasn’t changed him. He is a workaholic and takes a lot upon himself, but he knows he has to work hard if he is to succeed in his business, so he never complains. He’s been so helpful to me with my knowledge of the area – as well as with my Italian! His wines are beautiful, not only his top-of-the-line Barolo “Bricco Francesco”, but also his bottlings of Dolcetto d’Alba (especially his “Rubis”, which is one of my favorites of this wine type).
Roberta Giuraiali Stelzer and Antonio Stelzer, Maso Martis (Photo ©Tom Hyland)
Roberta and Antonio Stelzer, Maso Martis, Trento – I met this couple for the first time in September (thanks to the help of my friend Aurora Endrici) and was won over by their genuine warmth – you get what you see with these two. Their metodo classico Trento DOC sparkling wines are first-rate across the board. It’s impossible for me to select one as my favorite, but their 2012 Brut and Madame Martis 2003 are outstanding wines, sparklers that are vibrant and delicious!
Camilla Lunelli, Ferrari (Photo ©Tom Hyland)
Camilla Lunelli, Ferrari, Trento – Camilla and her siblings – Marcello, Matteo and Alessandro are outstanding ambassadors for not only their amazing sparkling wines, but in reality, for the region of Trento as well as Italy in general. They know how to treat people – with grace, courtesy and class! So many great wines from Ferrari, especially the Perlé Nero (100% Pinot Nero and very Champagne-like) and the Riserva Giulio Ferrari, a stunning wine that is among the three or four finest sparkling wines of Italy.
Orlando Pecchenino (Photo ©Tom Hyland)
Orlando Pecchenino, proprietor/winemaker, Pecchenino, Dogliani - A gentleman farmer, Pecchenino produces beautiful examples of Dolcetto from his immaculate vineyards in Dogliani. His hard work has paid off in the market and the media, but he prefers to let the wines do the talking. He’s very relaxed and confident and it’s always a pleasure spending time with him, whether tasting his latest releases in his cellars or enjoying his wines at a casual lunch. While he is most famous for his “Bricco Botti” Dogliani (a classic), his Barolo “San Giuseppe” from a cru in Monforte is a marvelous wine that is relatively unknown. This is a shame, as it’s a gem (it’s one of the very few 2009 Barolos that I thoroughly enjoyed).
Ilaria Petitto, Donnachiara (Photo ©Tom Hyland)
Ilaria Petitto, proprietor, Donnachiara, Montefalcione, Campania – A friend of mine in Campania jokes with me whenever I talk about the wines of Donnachiara; “I know the real reason you go there,” she says. Ok, let’s be honest, Ilaria Petitto is a strikingly attractive woman, but it’s also her graciousness and warmth – as well as her marvelous wines that make my visits to Donnachiara a true pleasure. Beautiful Greco di Tufo and Fiano di Avellino (especially the new releases from 2012) and now she has introduced special bottlings of these two wines – “Esoterico” Fiano and “Ostinato” Greco – that are totally different than the classic versions, but just as memorable.
Marica Bonomo, Monte del Fra (Photo ©Tom Hyland)
Marica Bonomo, proprietor, Monte del Fra, Sommacampagna, Veneto – Marica is such a nice person, so it’s so wonderful to see so much success come her way. She produces beautiful versions of Valpolicella and Amarone, but it’s her lovely white wine “Ca del Magro”, a Custoza Superiore blended from several varieties that is her shining star. It’s always a pleasure to meet her and talk about her business.
Camilla Lunelli, Ferrari (Photo ©Tom Hyland)
My most recent trip to Italy was a wild ride – six regions in 18 days, most of it during the beginning of harvest in several wine zones. From Campania in the south to Marche and then Umbria in the middle and then Piemonte, Alto Adige, Trentino and Veneto in the north, I enjoyed numerous excellent meals and dozens of first-rate wines, so let’s get right to them.
In case you aren’t that familiar, there are some excellent, even outstanding sparkling wines made in northern Italy. Of course, Franciacorta has been one of the reference points for Italian sparkling wine the past four decades and the wines as a whole have improved dramatically over the past five to ten years. I didn’t get to visit this area during this trip, but I did enjoy the Bellavista Satèn Gran Cuvée a 100% Chardonnay that is one of the finest of this type (Satèn is under less pressure than other examples of Franciacorta; the name refers to “satin” or “silky” for its ultra smooth finish) I have ever tasted. Quite rich with delicious fresh pear and green apple flavors, this is rich with marvelous complexity and a great example of finesse in a sparkling wine.
Another area that has come on in recent years for its sparkling wines is the Alta Langa district of Piemonte; as the name suggests, the vineyards are planted at high (alta) elevations to ensure good acidity and structure. While this is a category that is small (less than 20 producers) and while the consistency is not quite where it should be, there have been some excellent examples, none more so than the Enrico Serafino “Zero” 2006. A blend of 85% Pinot Nero and 15% Chardonnay, this is a metodo classico product (as with Franciacorta) that is ultra smooth and irresistibly delicious. The Zero designation refers to the dosage, so this is quite dry, yet it is not austere, as the acidity is nicely balanced without being exceedingly high. The wine spent more than five years on its yeasts, rendering a product of marvelous complexity; there is a light yeastiness in the aromas and the perlage is very persistent. This is a beautifully balanced wine, one that is just a pleasure to drink with a large variety of foods, from lighter seafoods to veal or poultry.
Roberta and Antonio Stelzer, Maso Martis (Photo ©Tom Hyland)
If there is an area that challenges (and perhaps surpasses) Franciacorta for the quality of its metodo classico wines, it is Trento DOC, situated in and around the town of Trento in Trentino-Alto Adige. Generally speaking, this is a cooler area than Franciacorta, so the wines as a rule have excellent acidity and notable structure.
One of the very best producers here is Maso Martis; the proprietors are Roberta and Antonio Stelzer, a truly lovely and gracious couple. These are wines of great precision, ones where structure means almost everything to the wine; there is plenty of fruit, but ripeness does not come as the cost of overall balance. Every wine I tasted here during my visit was excellent; if I have to select one it would be the Brut Riserva Millesimato 2007. A blend of 70% Pinot Nero and 30% Chardonnay, the wine spent between 52-60 months on the lees and was aged in 2nd and 3rd passage barriques. Offering very good to excellent concentration, with expressive aromas of dried pear, yeast and dried yellow flowers, this is a rich, very dry sparkling wine with excellent persistence and beautiful purity. It is an absolute must for food, be it raw fish or roast pork. This will improve with some time; my estimate is that will show its best in 5-7 years. (A big thank you to my friend Aurora Endrici, a local publicist and journalist, for introducing me to this couple and their remarkable wines.)
Of course, the most famous producer of Trento DOC is the great firm of Ferrari, owned by the Lunelli family. I was able to meet with the three siblings who are most responsible for the current production: Camilla along with her brothers, Alessandro and Matteo, who also serves as winemaker. There has been so much written about this house and the quality of its wines; there is little I can add, except that this family is remarkably generous with their time, as they are very interested in one’s opinion. They also take their responsibility as ambassadors for their wines and those of Trento DOC very seriously; this is a company that is run with great professionalism.
It’s a difficult challenge to select only one wine from Ferrari as my favorite (but I’m up to the task!). I tried eight different cuvées, ranging from the delicious 2007 Perlé Rosé to the 2001 Riserva Giulio Ferrari, a wine that is truly exceptional in its breeding, complexity and finesse. However, my choice (at least for this trip) is the Perlé Nero 2006, a 100% Pinot Nero that was aged for six years on the yeasts. If the Riserva Giulio Ferrari is the most sublime of all the Ferrari wines, the Perlé Nero is the most powerful. Deep yellow with a very fine perlage, this displays explosive aromas of coffee, dried lemon peel and hyacinth (very distinctive!) and is full-bodied with excellent depth of fruit. There is vibrant acidity, outstanding persistence and notable complexity. This is a bambino, as they say in Italy, as the wine is in its infancy; this will will improve for quite some time, at least seven to ten years. This is so wonderful by itself, but it is an absolute brilliant match for roast veal or lamb. (I noted that this is the cuvée from Ferrari that most resembles Champagne in its power and yeastiness, yet I don’t want to give the impression that the other wines from the producer are not of the quality of Champagne, as they certainly are; they are merely a more subdued, fruit-driven style that has elevated this house to the top of the sparkling wine pyramid in Italy).
My final thought on this Perlé Nero 2006 is simply this; it is among the four or five best Italian sparkling wines I have tasted in the last five years.
My next post will feature many of the finest whites wines – most of them being from the outstanding 2012 vintage – I tasted during my trip in September.