Campania’s Vibrant Whites

Cork of Villa Raiano, one of Campania’s finest wine estates (Photo ©Tom Hyland)

I love the white wines of Campania, so it was a great pleasure to be invited to Bianchirpinia 2012, which was held in Avellino recently. This event, centered around anteprima tastings of the new releases of the 2011 vintage of Greco di Tufo and Fiano di Avellino, along with producers visits and dinners, showed both the quality and variety of these lovely wines and reaffirmed in my mind that these are among Italy’s finest whites.

While there were also a few other wines – such as Coda di Volpe and a few examples of Falanghina – tasted those days, Greco and Fiano were the primary focus. These two wines, produced from vines that are comprised of mixed soils – including volcanic deposits – are wines that beautifully display a sense of place. As most producers opt not to mature these wines in wood, the aromatic profiles of each stand out, with Greco delivering more lemon and pear aromatics (along with a pleasing note of almond in the nose and the finish), while Fiano is more identified (for me, at least) by more exotic fruits such as kiwi and mango along with lime and ripe pear (these notes of tropical fruit were more common in a warmer year such as 2011).

Another difference is with aging potential, as Greco tends to drink best within five years of the vintage date, while that increases to seven or more with Fiano. Indeed Fiano is a bit fatter on the palate with a more lush finish, while Greco tends to be more reserved with slightly higher acidity (in some cases) as well as having a bit more minerality. These estimates about aging are general of course and it’s always a treat to learn about a Greco or Fiano that shows well more than a decade out, such as the time earlier this year when I tasted the 1994 Greco di Tufo with owner Raffaelle Troisi at Vadiaperti at his cellars in Montefredane. Light yellow in appearance, here was a beautifully balanced wine with great freshness – I thought I was drinking a five year old wine, not one that was eighteen years old!

Sabino Loffredo, winemaker, Pietracupa (Photo ©Tom Hyland)

As for the particular qualities of the 2011s, this is a successful vintage with expressive fruit and very good concentration. If there is a criticism one can make of this vintage, it’s that the wines as a rule don’t have the acidity of the best vintages, such as 2010, 2009 or 2008. Sabino Loffredo, proprietor/winemaker at Pietracupa in Montefredane, explained to me that there wasn’t the usual rain in September in 2011, so grapes ripened more quickly. 2011 also has the misfortune of following 2010 which in Loffredo’s words, “is one of the finest vintages for Greco and Fiano of the last twenty years.”

So while I couldn’t give 2011 a 5-star rating, it is a solid 4-star (excellent) vintage for the best producers. Here is a short list of my favorite examples of Greco di Tufo and Fiano di Avellino from 2011:

Greco di Tufo

• Benito Ferrara
• Terrredora “Loggia della Serra”
• Pietracupa
• Bambinuto “Picoli”
• Mastroberardino “Nova Serra”
• Villa Raiano “Contrada Marotta” (5 stars – ottimo!)
• Sella delle Spine
• Vadiaperti
• Feudi di San Gregorio “Cutizzi”

Fiano di Avellino

• Pietracupa
• Terredora “Terre di Dora”
• Villa Raiano “Ventidue”

Generally, I was more impressed with the examples of Greco di Tufo from 2011 than the versions of Fiano di Avellino, but perhaps the Fianos will show much better with another year or two in the bottle.

A few examples of Fiano from 2010 and 2009 were also tasted out; these wines showed beautifully, especially the 2010 Urciuolo (enticing aromas of peony, chamomile and lemon rind) and the Villa Diamante “Vigna della Congregazione”, which has been among my top two or three examples of Fiano every year, as this is routinely a great wine, with a lush, oily feel and outstanding persistence.

Also from 2009, the Joaquin “Vino della Stella” displayed excellent ripeness with aromatics of apricot, papaya, golden apple and saffron, while the Mastroberardino “More Maiorum” matured in wood, is a superb wine, with intriguing beeswax, lemon oil and bosc pear aromas backed by excellent persistence and ideal structure.

Regarding the recent 2012 harvest, Sabino Loffredo told me that while the year started off on a question mark, things improved during the growing season; in his words, 2012 could be quite a pleasant surprise. If Sabino says so, you know it’s true, so I’m excited about trying this new vintage when the wines are released in 2013.

It is vitally important for an event such as Bianchirpinia to continue, as it is an excellent showcase for Greco di Tufo and Fiano di Avellino, which in my mind are most certainly among the upper ranks of Italy’s finest white wines. Given that more artisan producers have started to make these wines over the past decade, the overall quality has never been higher. Great news for lovers of Italian white wine!

Thank you to Diana Cataldo of Miriade and Partners for the invitation to this event and for organizing an excellent two days in Irpinia.

The Best Dessert Wine You’ve Never Tasted

I love the endless challenge that the Italian wine scene presents. There are always new varieties, wine districts or producers to be discovered. How can you not love the opportunity to constantly taste new wines?

Kerner is a variety that is a specialty of one small zone, that of the Valle d’Isarco in northeastern Alto Adige, not far from the Austrian border. The best known producer is probably Abbazia di Novacella, as they craft two lovely dry versions as well as a passito bottling. I tasted these wines during a recent visit to the winery and then for my next appointment that day, I stopped at Weingut Niklas, where Dieter Sölva renders a delicious example with bright fruit and lively acidity. I’ve also tasted a very nice example from Strasserhof, also from Valle d’Isarco.

I was told by a local producer that Nössing was a producer to search for if I wanted to taste an excellent version of Kerner. On my way back to my accommodations one night in Alto Adige, I stopped at a local enoteca and found the Nössing wine, but this was the vendemmia tardiva (late harvest) offering, not the dry one (vintage 2010). That was fine as I love dessert wines and was curious to see what this producer could do with this variety.

Am I glad I purchased this wine! Displaying a light, bright yellow color, the aromas of apricot, yellow peach, papaya and honey are haunting – face it, don’t you want to try a wine that smells like that? Medium-full with excellent concentration, this is ultra clean with lively acidity, excellent persistence, impeccable balance and just a hint of sweetness. It’s only 11% alcohol, so it is delicate in the finish and not overly sweet or lush. It’s absolutely delicious and the fruit flavors stay with you long after you’ve finished the wine. I tasted this with a producer of red wines in the Veneto who was absolutely blown away with the flavors and quality of this wine.

To the best of my knowledge, this is not imported in America. Given that Manni Nössing only produces a total of about 1800 cases of wine in total – divided up among this offering as well as a traditional dry Kerner, Sylvaner, Gruner Veltliner and Gewurztraminer – there just isn’t much of this wine to go around. But the next time you’re in Alto Adige and can find this in an enoteca (17.50 Euro for a 500 ml – well worth it), do yourself a favor and purchase a bottle so you can experience one of Italy’s least known yet finest dessert wines!

Manni Nössing, Bressanone (Brixen)

http://www.manni-noessing.com

The Glory of Grappa

In keeping with the spirit (pun intended) of this blog, today’s post will be an educational one, but this will not be my thoughts about particular Italian wines, grapes or producers, but rather a review of the wonderful book Grappa: Italy Bottled written by Ove Boudin.

Boudin, a Swedish wine writer, does a terrific job informing as well as entertaining in this book; after reading this, you’d probably like to sit down and have a glass of beer – oops, I mean grappa – with him. He admits that when he started this project, he was curious about grappa, yet not really a devotee; “there was a time when grappa was a challenge that made me hesitate. Then the challenge aroused my curiousity.”

So Boudin decided to discover first-hand the wonders of grappa; he would head to Italy and drive to a good number of distilleries in the northern regions – these areas are home to the finest examples of grappa in the country  - and learn everything he could about production methods, from the type of alambicco – the still – to the various flavors imparted by each variety, from the aromatic Moscato and Gewurztraminer to the more powerful Nebbiolo or Barbera.

Before sharing his travels however, Boudin devotes a good section of his book to an A to Z look at grappa, not only telling us how it is made in great detail – we learn the details of continuous distillation versus non-continuous (the latter method yields much more complex products) – but also giving us a brief history of grappa as well as telling us what to expect when tasting a grappa, which is generally quite different than tasting wine.

After this opening section, Boudin shares his grappa adventures with us as he drives throughout regions such as Trentino-Alto Adige, Friuli, Veneto and Piemonte in search of the finest offerings available. He shares an important thought with us at the beginning of this section; “Grappa does not come to you. You must come to the grappa.”  This is such an important notion to understand, as the author reminds us how unique this product is. He will dislike one example, but believes his reaction is probably due to his lack of experience tasting these products and that the grappa will taste better upon his return to Sweden. It’s this refreshing attitude, one in which the author does not take himself too seriously that makes this book such an entertaining read.

Along the way he takes us to some of the most famous grappa producers, such as Pojer & Sandri in Trentino, Nardini in the Veneto and Marolo in Piemonte, while also profiling such lesser-known excellent distillerie  as Pilzer in Trentino, Capovilla in the Veneto, Nannoni in Toscana and Portofino in Liguria. Of course, what would any study of grappa be without mention of the amazing products of Poli and Romano Levi, who are given thoughtful profiles by the author.

I truly admire the way that Boudin takes his time telling this story as this is more than a technical diatribe about grappa and it is certainly more than a check list of the best producers. His description of his travels throughout Italy – struggling with the language, missing turnoffs on the highway, et al – are quite charming. I particularly loved his section on Conegliano – Valdobbiadene and the simple pleasures he discovered during his brief time there.

I highly recommend Grappa: Italy Bottled for anyone who wants to learn more about this iconic product as well as those who simply want to read a nicely spun yarn about life in Italy.

 

Elegance and Value from Franciacorta

There’s a belief in some circles that the wines of Franciacorta are expensive. I’d like to introduce evidence to the contrary with the beautifully made, value-priced offerings from Ronco Calino.

Founded in 1996 by businessman Paolo Radici, Ronco Calino produces several style of Franciacorta, Italy’s most famous metodo classico sparkling wine. Recently, Michael Skurnkik Wines of Syosset, NY, one of America’s leading importers of Italian wines, started to sell these wines in the US; I tasted the three offerings they represent and was quite impressed.

The NV Brut is a blend of 80% Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Nero (note: these are two of the three varieties allowed in a Franciacorta sparkling wine, the other being Pinot Bianco). Aged for twenty-four months on its yeasts, this has a persistent perlage and aromas of Bosc pear, acacia blossoms and citrus fruit. Medium-bodied with good concentration, this has nice length in the mid-palate along with very good acidity and persistence. Nicely balanced, this is a clean, refreshing sparkling wine of very good complexity. This would be a nice aperitif or served as a starter for many meals; it’s wonderful with vegetable risotto. ($30)

Even better is the 2011 Brut Satèn, a sparkling wine of lovely finesse, which is quite appropriate given that the term Satèn means “satin” or “silky.” Regulations for a Satèn in Franciacorta allow only for white grapes; this is 100% Chardonnay, aged on its yeasts for 24 months. Light yellow with a creamy mousse, this offers lovely aromas of green tea, spearmint, lime and peony – how sensual! Medium-full, this has an elegant entry on the palate, very good acidity and notable persistence. This is a lovely Satèn with excellent varietal character and beautiful focus; this is quite flavorful and yet always manages to maintain a delicacy on the palate. Above all, this has impressive complexity, freshness and balance and is quite delicious. At $30, this is an excellent value and certainly the finest example of Satèn I have tasted at anywhere near this price. Enjoy this over the next two to three years; this is ideally paired with most seafood, especially tilapia, sole or sea bass.

Finally, the NV Rosé “Radijan” is, in my opinion, the best of these three sparkling wines from this classy producer. This is 100% Pinot Nero, something not seen very often, as many examples of Franciacorta Rosé have only 30% to 60% of this variety. Displaying a lovely bright copper color, the delicate aromas are quite pretty with notes of strawberry, pear and geranium. This also spent twenty-four months on its yeasts; medium-full, this has a delicate feel on the palate and in the finish. There is very good acidity, impressive persistence and excellent length in the finish; the complexity is first-rate, as is the varietal purity. Enjoy this over the next two to three years with duck breast, lighter poultry or pork. ($33)

I rate the NV Brut with a three-star (very good) rating, while both the Satèn and the Rosé are four-star (excellent) wines to my way of thinking. To have wines of this quality as well as complexity and overall harmony retailing for $30 and $33 a bottle? Well, certainly in this case, Franciacorta is not expensive. If you’ve been waiting to experience this celebrated sparkling wine, but never took the time to do so, here are three notable examples to get you started!

A Superb Vermentino

We’ve moved from summer to autumn; in a few days, we turn the page on September. Temperatures will fall and we’ll get ready for cooler days, which will turn to very cold days before you know it (at least in many places in the Northern Hemisphere, including my home of Chicago).

I mention this as the so-called summer whites will now take a back seat to red wines as well as more weighty, “serious” whites. Yet there are many whites that work all year long; unfortunately too many wine “gurus” think of white wines as lightweight, given a few exceptions such as white Burgundy, California Chardonnay and Grand Cru releases from Alsace, of course.

Hence my praise in today’s post for the 2011 Jankara Vermentino di Gallura. This is a famous wine type from the beautiful island of Sardinia in the Tyrrhenian Sea off Italy’s western coast about the latitude of Lazio. Vermentino is grown in many parts of the island; these wines are known as Vermentino di Sardinia. But the finest examples are the Vermentino di Gallura, from far northeastern Sardinia; vineyards here are very close to the sea and give the wines a salty edge in the finish; the rocky soils lend a distinct minerality.

The Jankara, from a relatively new estate, is a marvelous examples of Vermentino di Gallura, especially this new release from 2011. I tasted the 2010, which I enjoyed, but while it was clean and well made, it lacked a vibrancy, an edge that would lift it above the average; to be fair to the owners, that growing season was not the most favorable. However, the 2011 is a superior wine, an exceptional Vermentino. Offering lovely aromas of melon, kiwi and lilacs, this is very rich on the palate, while the finish is ultra long with excellent persistence. There is textbook lively acidity and beautiful varietal character with a nice sensation of minerality. This is a delicious white of great balance and complexity; pair this with most shellfish – I especially love it with grilled shrimp – and enjoy it now or over the next two to three years, that is, if you can resist its marvelous charms right now!

I mentioned summer time is gone and so are summer whites. It’s clear that a first-rate example of Vermentino di Gallura, such as the 2011 from Jankara is so much more than a simple summer quaffer. It’s a marvelous white wine that can stand up to many foods, even lobster. So enjoy this year round!

Imported by Empson, USA, this has a suggested retail of $24.99.

Simply Sublime

Claudio Tipa, proprietor, Poggio di Sotto, Castelnuovo dell’Abate, Montalcino

(Photo ©Tom Hyland)

My latest print article appears in the August 31 issue of Sommelier Journal, one of this country’s finest wine publications. The article is about Brunello di Montalcino and you can read it by clicking on this link. In the article, I discuss the current goings on in Montalcino, about how producers are putting the controversies of the final few years in their rear view mirrors as they move ahead with the most critical business of all – that of making the finest wines possible.

Various producers go about this in different fashions, of course, as some continue the traditional viticulture of their parents and grandparents, while others aim for a more modern style. Some of this philosophy is determined in the vineyards, while much is determined in the cellars; all of this is covered in the article.

Loyal readers of this blog know that I favor traditional red wines from Italy; ones aged in large oak casks known as botti (plural; botte, singular). These casks, ranging in size from 20 to 50 HL – or 2000 to 5000 liters – (some are even larger) have subtle wood influence. The more modern wines are aged in barriques of 225 liters or tonneaux of 500 liters. Clearly these smaller oak barrels impart more wood sensations to the wines, which can dominate a wine with their spicy and toasty notes. Too often wines that have been matured in these containers tend to blur the varietal characteristics of the grapes. Even worse, one loses a sense of place; it can be difficult to identify if a wine is from Tuscany, Abruzzo, Umbria or any number of regions. For my way of thinking, that’s not a good thing.

Botte in a Montalcino cellar (Photo ©Tom Hyland)

Now I am not saying that every wine aged in a smaller oak barrel does not have notable varietal character; much of this, as with any discipline, depends on moderation. I enjoy several examples of Brunello matured in mid-size tonneaux; the Poggio Antico “Altero” being a marvelous example. But the appeal of a wine depends on the oak being a supporting player and not the dominant force. It’s all about balance.

In my article, you’ll read tasting notes of some of my favorite wines. Of the more than 75 examples of 2007 Brunello di Montalcino I have tasted this year (2007 is the new release for Brunello in 2012), my favorite is the Poggio di Sotto. This renowned estate in the premier Castelnuovo dell’Abate zone, a bit south of the town of Montalcino, was purchased in 2011 by Claudio Tipa from the original owner Piero Palmucci, who had elevated his winery into one of Montalcino’s most in-demand, due to his ultra traditional style of aging for a longer period of time in botti than required by DOCG reglations for Brunello do Montalcino. Tipa, who also owns the magnificent Bolgheri estate Grattamcacco, promised Palmucci that he would maintain this traditional approach in the cellars.

When I sat down with Tipa this past February at the estate and tasted the 2007 Brunello as well as the 2006 Brunello Riserva, I was impressed with the complexity and richness of each wine. But while I was tasting these wines, it’s almost as though a light went on, as I was completely taken by the delicacy of these wines on my palate. Yes, these are wines that will improve and age gracefully for some 15-25 years, but the beauty of these wines was not their power, but rather their finesse. Clearly much of this elegance on the palate comes from the fact that these wines spend so much time in large oak casks – both were matured for four years in botti – which not only softens the wines, but lengthens the mid-palate and lends an overall sense of refinement. (Note: the DOCG regulations require two years of wood aging for a Brunello normale and three years for a Brunello riserva, so both wines at Poggio di Sotto are matured for longer than normal periods. Even their Rosso, a wine of great character, is aged for two years in botti; this wine type does not even require any wood aging, according to the disciplinare.)

Now this extra time in wood is of course a more costly way to do business and the wines of Poggio di Sotto are priced higher than most other examples of Brunello (I refuse to label these wines as expensive, as that is a relative term. A $150 wine that is magnificent can be thought of as reasonably priced, while an uninspiring $12 wine can be overpriced). But the sensation of elegance, of finesse, of discovering subtleties not found in other wines is a rare treasure. The wines of Poggio di Sotto – along with the examples of Brunello from Biondi-Santi, Il Paradiso di Manfredi, Le Chuise and a few other traditional producers – are in a word, sublime. This is what separates the great producers from the very good ones.

In short, there’s nothing trendy about these wines. For the reviewers at certain influential wine publications in the US, power is what makes a wine stand out; for them, bigger is better. Let them have their way – power is certainly easier to understand than finesse. It’s always been that way and it may always be that way. But for experienced wine lovers, finesse, subtlety and delicacy are magical terms. You wonder if the big-name wine writers will ever learn that lesson.