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I wonder how many Italian wine lovers pay much attention to Bardolino. I know I don’t try as much of it as I’d like to. There isn’t much attention paid to this wine and that’s a shame, as it’s quite charming as well as being very affordable, but it’s also a wine that can age for 5-7 years or even longer when it comes to the best producers and the finest vintages.
I recently attended an anteprima (preview) tasting in Bardolino; the purpose here was for journalists to sample the soon-to-be-released bottlings from the 2013 vintage. I am fortunate enough to attend several of these tastings each year in Italy, but it’s usually for a more powerful red wine, such as Barolo, Brunello, Taurasi or Amarone, so I looked forward to trying more of a medium-bodied red; I also wanted to discover the various styles of Bardolino available, as I was only familiar with a handful of the area’s producers.
Along with Bardolino, the tasting also featured two other wines made in the zone: Bardolino Chiaretto, the famous local rosato, and Bardolino Chiaretto spumante, the sparkling version of the rosato. (This tasting also featured the 2013 versions of Custoza, a local white also made by many Bardolino producers. I will deal with this in another post quite soon).
I’ll start with the Bardolino Chiaretto spumante. I had literally only tasted fewer than a half-dozen examples before this event, so as I am a sparkling wine lover, I wanted to get a grasp on this wine. Any Bardolino is primarily made from two grapes, Corvina and Rondinella, while a small percentage of Molinara is also part of the blend from some producers (these are the same grapes used in the Valpolicella district to the east). So the Chiaretto spumante is the sparkling rosato version of Bardolino; the wines vary in color from bright pink to deep copper and sweetness levels range from off-dry to medium-sweet.
Maybe it was the warm weather in the beautiful town of Lasize where this tasting was held, but I enjoyed these wines very much. Actually, I would have loved these wines even if the day was cold and rainy – the wines were quite enjoyable. I just love being able to sample such fun wines such as this! You don’t think about Bardolino Chiaretto Spumante – you just drink it! How nice is that, given how serious many of us get at times when we rhapsodize about the wines we come across?
While there were a few examples that were a little too sweet for me, I was impressed by the majority of these spumanti. Most were quite good and there were a few examples that had a bit more depth of fruit and complexity and were drier than the standard version. The finest for me were the bottlings from Corte Gioliare, Monte del Fra “La Picia” and especially the Le Tende “Volutte” (pictured above). This last wine is absolutely delicious and it’s also dry with excellent complexity and persistence. While most of these wines are meant for consumption within 12-15 months, the Le Tende version actually has the structure to drink well for as long as two years from now. Maybe it’s the fact that proprietor Mauro Fortuna has a friend in the Valdobbiadene area in northern Veneto where the finest examples of Prosecco are from, produce this wine. Whatever the case, this is a marvelous wine to be enjoyed on its own before dinner or with an outdoors lunch or even with sushi, tuna or salumi.
Now on to the traditional Bardolino Chiaretto, the non-sparkling wine. This has long been a calling card for the area’s producers, as this rosato is one of the most well-known in all of Italy. Delicate and fruit-filled, this is a delight with a wide range of foods such as risotto, tortellini and pizza.
I did like some of these Chiaretti - I’ll mention those in a bit – but I was somewhat disappointed in the overall quality of the wines I tasted that day. Too many were candied in nature, while a few were a bit cloyingly sweet; I compared some of these examples to white zinfandel, a wine I largely dislike, so that’s not a good thing.
The best were from top producers such as Le Fraghe, Le Tende, Albino Piona and Costadoro. Here were rosati that were medium-bodied with pleasing perfumes of strawberry, cherry, pear and red poppies. These were dry or off-dry and were nicely balanced with good acidity. These were a pleasure to taste; I just wish there were more examples like these.
As for Bardolino itself, I was pleased with the overall quality of the wines. While you may think most examples of Bardolino are pretty much the same, given its image as a lighter red, that’s not the case. There are some meant for immediate consumption over the first 12-15 months, but there are many others that are much better with two to three – or even five – years down the road.
Matilde Poggi, Le Fraghe (Photo ©Tom Hyland)
The finest examples of 2013 Bardolino I tasted at this event were from Le Tende (this producer is certainly one of Bardolino’s shining stars), Le Fraghe (proprietor Matilde Poggi never fails at crafting a lovely Bardolino of great typicity), Le Vigne di San Pietro and Albino Piona (as with the above names, the Piona estate is on the short list of the area’s finest producers).
Giovanna Tantini (Photo ©Tom Hyland)
I would also like to make an important point about aging Bardolino; while you may think it’s meant for lunch or dinner tonight, it does drink well after a few years. The 2009 bottling from Albino Piona is a delight at present, while the 2009 from Giovanna Tantini is also quite impressive. The Piona bottling is so delightful, with its dried cherry and rose petal notes (along with a hint of pepper); there is excellent complexity and the acidity is quite good, giving this wine a lovely balance. When I speak of Bardolino being a charming wine, here is a textbook example.
The Tantini has more tannins; her style of crafting Bardolino is to let these wines age for 3-5 years (or longer) to let the tannins subside, while the wine gains in complexity, both in the nose and on the palate. This wine at almost five years old, still displays a lovely youthful garnet color and has enticing aromas of a freshly baked cherry pie. This is a lovely wine, one with the stuffing and structure to age for another 5-7 years. That’s not what you expect from Bardolino, so take note – Bardolino can age well. Brava, Giovanna!
Orlando Pecchenino, Dogliani, with a bottle of his 2010 Bricco Botti, one of 2013’s best Italian wines (Photo ©Tom Hyland)
January always means starting fresh as well as remembering what came before. So it’s time for my annual look at the best Italian wines of 2013, but instead of offering a complete list (that will be printed in the Spring issue of my Guide to Italian Wines, available to paid subscribers), I’m going to take a different approach and focus on just a few wine zones that were home to some pretty special wines, offerings that don’t get a lot of attention.
Dogliani – I adore Dolcetto and I’m on a constant crusade to tell wine lovers about this lovely wine; I know why it doesn’t sell as well as it should, but it doesn’t help that the major wine publications ignore this wine. In the small village of Dogliani, a bit south of the Barolo zone, a small band of dedicated producers specialize in the Dolceto grape and craft marvelous versions, wines that have more richness and age worthiness than examples of Dolcetto d’Alba or Diano d’Alba. That said, I visited several producers in Dogliani this past September and tasted four examples of Dogliani that were outstanding: the 2010 Pecchenino “Bricco Botti”a wine that has tremendous complexity and character; the 2012 Chionetti “San Luigi”, a wine of great varietal purity and focus and one of the most delicious red wines I tasted in all of Italy this past year; the 2009 Anna Maria Abbona “San Bernardo” from 65-year old vines that offers abundant floral aromas backed by tremendous persistence and finally the 2004 San Fereolo Dogliani Superiore from proprietor Nicoletta Bocca. Here is a current release – yes, a nine year-old (now almost ten) Dolcetto of superb breeding that will drink well for another 5-7 years. Wines such as this one and the others I mentioned are evidence that Dolcetto can be a first-rate wine; it’s a shame that more wine publications ignore this lovely grape.
Verdicchio (Photo ©Tom Hyland)
Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi – Speaking of grapes that are largely ignored, Verdicchio is at or near the top of this list. Here is a grape grown in Marche that has uncommon complexity and can age – given the proper care at any particular cellar in the best vintages – for 7-10 years and even longer in some cases (I tried a 1991 Verdicchio from the excellent cooperative producer Colonnara a few months ago that was superb and still quite fresh). So why don’t you hear about this wine more often? Simply put, the major wine publications focus on red wines, especially in Italy, so Verdicchio is priority number 35 (or is it number 36?) for their editors.
The best new releases of Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi I tasted were the 2012 Umani-Ronchi “Casal di Serra”, the 2010 “Vecchie Vigne” (old vines) version from this vineyard and the marvelous 2009 Umani-Ronchi “Plenio”, a Verdicchio of outstanding complexity with ideal balance.
Also, the 2009 Villa Bucci “Riserva” is one of the finest versions of this wine I have ever tasted; given the fame and outstanding track record of this producer, that’s saying something. With its heavenly orange blossom and hyacinth perfumes as well as pronounced minerality, this is a brilliant wine, easily one of the finest of the year. Look for this to be at its best in 5-7 years, although I may be a bit conservative in my estimate.
At Santa Barbara, the 2011 Stefano Antonucci “Riserva” is a heavyweight Verdicchio, a barrique-aged version that is lush and tasty with tremendous complexity; while I often prefer Verdicchio not aged in small barrels, here is an example that is perfectly balanced. A different approach can be found in the 2009 Stefano Antonucci “Tardivo ma non Tardivo” (loosely translated as “late but not too late” in reference to the late harvesting of the grapes); this is aged solely in steel. This is as singular a Verdicchio as I have ever tasted, given its exotic aromas of grapefruit, green tea and a note of honey, while the minerality and structure remind me of a Premier Cru or Grand Cru Chablis. Un vino bianco, ma che un vino!
Sabino Loffredo, Pietracupa (Photo ©Tom Hyland)
Campania white wines - This is such a vibrant region these days for all of its wines, not just Taurasi, its most famous red, but also other distinctive wines such as Palagrello Nero and Casavecchia. Then there are the whites – wines of great varietal distinctiveness, minerality and structure. 2012 was a first-rate vintage for Campanian whites, as the wines have beautiful focus, lively acidity, excellent ripeness, lovely aromatics (thanks to a long growing season) and distinct minerality. I’ve loved these wines for years and it’s been such a pleasure to see the results from two superb vintages, such as 2010 and 2012.
There were so many gorgeous 2012 Campanian whites; I can’t list them all, so here are just a few of the best: Pietracupa Greco di Tufo and Fiano di Avellino - from the brilliant producer Sabino Loffredo; Feudi di San Gregorio Greco di Tufo “Cutizzi”; Mastroberardino Fiano di Avellino “Radici”; Donnachiara Greco “Ostinato” and Villa Raiano Greco di Tufo “Contrada Marotta”. A wonderful collection of whites, drinkable now and over the next 5-7 years.
Chianti Classico - Every year, more and more of these wines taste the same to me. There are exceptions of course, those wines from producers that still craft offerings that reflect a sense of place, rather than just producing bottles aimed at a large audience. The two best I tried in 2012 were both Riserva wines from the very underrated 2008 vintage. The first was the Felsina “Rancia”, a wine of great strength with very good acidity and notable structure. The second was the Bibbiano “Vigna Capannino”, also a beautifully structured wine that represented to me what a top Chianti Classico Riserva should be, a wine with richness of fruit, not just a higher percentage of oak; of course there is admirable Sangiovese character, but there is also very good acidity, meaning this is a wine that will age gracefully, with peak in 10-12 years. The Felsina is a more powerful wine, while the Bibbiano is more delicate, but both are first-rate versions of what this wine type should represent.
Looking south from Appiano at vineyards in Alto Adige (Photo ©Tom Hyland)
Alto Adige whites – Alto Adige, being a cool climate region, is of course known for its white wines, but I wonder how often wine lovers think about how special these wines truly are. The regular bottlings are quite nice, with very good acidity and balance; the wines are also quite clean, beautifully made with excellent varietal character. Then there are dozens – no make that hundreds – of vibrant Alto Adige whites that have excellent depth of fruit, distinct minerality and gorgeous complexity. A few of the best from include the 2012 Cantina Tramin “Stoan”, a blend of Chardonnay, Sauvignon, Gewurztraminer and Pinot Bianco that is as complex and as satisfying as any Italian white (or a white from just about anywhere); the 2012 Gewurztraminer “Nussbaumer” also from Cantina Tramin (this is one of Italy’s top 50 producers, in my opinion), a wine of heavenly grapefruit, lychee, yellow rose and honeysuckle aromas backed by excellent concentration and subtle spice; the 2012 St. Michael-Eppan Sauvignon “Sanct Valentin”, with great varietal character – what a lovely wine for vegetable risotto or most seafood; the 2010 Cantina Terlano Pinot Bianco “Vorberg” Riserva, one of Italy’s most distinctive white wines, and finally, the 2012 Girlan Gewurztraminer “Flora”, a version of this wine that is not as explosive as the Tramin “Nussbaumer”, but one that is just as attractive and varietally pure.
Estate vineyards of Ferrari near the town of Trento (Photo ©Tom Hyland)
Trento Metodo Classico – You could be forgiven if you weren’t very familiar with classically-produced sparkling wines from Trentino. After all, Prosecco is much-more famous as an Italian bubbly and the great wines of Franciacorta in Lombardia generally receive more attention. Still, the cool area near the town of Trento is ideal for beautifully structured sparkling wines, especially when made by the firms of Ferrari and Maso Martis.
There has been so much written about Ferrari- what marvelous sparkling wines they produce! The finest I tasted this year were the 2006 Perlé Nero, a 100% Blanc de Noirs with excellent concentration and beautiful complexity and then for a rare treat, the 1994 Giulio Ferrari “Riserve del Fondatore”; this latter wine was a special, extremely limited wine that was disgorged in 2011, meaning it spent 17 years on its yeasts – an unheard of length of time for almost any sparkling wine. Words can’t do this cuvée justice – this is simply an ethereal sparkling wine, one of tremendous length, with exotic flavors of orange, truffle and even a hint of cream – just amazing!
It may be difficult to compete – if that’s the proper term – with Ferrari, but the husband and wife team of Roberta and Antonio Stelzer do their best. Try their wines and you’ll see what I mean, as these sparklers are so beautifully balanced and such a joy to consume. Everything here is excellent, particularly the full-bodied 2007 Brut Riserva Millesimato and the stunning 2003 Madame Martis, with its appealing honey, cream and apple tart aromas and oustanding persistence.
The Slow Wine tasting, an event featuring more than 50 Italian producers pouring their wines, will be held in Chicago on January 29 at Spiaggia (900 N. Michigan). There will be two tastings – one for the trade and media from 1-5 PM, while there is a consumer event from 6:00-8:30.
This walk-around tasting is based upon the Slow Wine Guide, which honors the best producers of Italy, especially those that craft wine according to environmental sensitivity and eco-sustainable practices. There are producers from every region in Italy and they have been noted for various recognition, ranging from the best values in Italian wines to overall excellence for their type to finally the Snail award for a producer’s wine that interprets the Slow Wine philosophy in categories such as territory, environment and identity.
Thus anyone attending this event will have the opportunity to taste a wide array of the latest releases from Italy, ranging from Pinot Grigio and Friulano from Alto Adige and Friuli to textbook reds such as Dolcetto, Barbaresco and Barolo from Piedmont. Among the producers pouring their wines at this event will be Planeta (Sicily), Anna Maria Abbona (Piedmont), Giovanni Rosso (Piedmont), Grifalco (Basilicata), Pieropan (Veneto) and dozens more. There will also be producers from regions such as Emilia-Romagna, Lazio, Umbria and Marche, whose wines do not often receive the acclaim they deserve.
The 2014 Slow Wine Guide will be available at the tasting. Note that for the consumer event, the book is included in the ticket price of $45, while at the afternoon tasting for trade and media, the guide will be available for purchase.
Here are the links with information on registering for this event:
Trade and media tasting: click here
Consumer tasting: click here
I hope to see you at the Slow Wine tasting in Chicago on January 29!
Milena Pepe, Tenuta Cavalier Pepe (Photo ©Tom Hyland)
For my first post of 2014, I was all set to list my favorite Italian wines of 2013, but before I do that, I thought I’d tell you a bit about a few of the people that make these wines. They’re among my favorite people in Italy and they have always treated me graciously, especially during my trips – six in all – during the calendar year of 2013. So here are images – and a few words – about some of my favorite people in the wine industry in Italy.
Milena Pepe, proprietor, Tenuta Cavalier Pepe, Sant’Angelo all’Esca, Campania – Milena is a beautiful woman and also one of the most positive, outgoing people I’ve ever met anywhere in the world. I don’t care how bad a mood you’re in – if you spend ten minutes with this woman, you’ll come out with a smile on your face. Try her 2012 Greco di Tufo “Nestor” and you’ll admire the wines she oversees here as well.
Alessandro Locatelli, Rocche Costamagna (Photo ©Tom Hyland)
Alessandro Locatelli, proprietor/winemaker, Rocche Costamagna, La Morra – I’ve known Alessandro about ten years and in all that time, he’s always remained down-to-earth; his success hasn’t changed him. He is a workaholic and takes a lot upon himself, but he knows he has to work hard if he is to succeed in his business, so he never complains. He’s been so helpful to me with my knowledge of the area – as well as with my Italian! His wines are beautiful, not only his top-of-the-line Barolo “Bricco Francesco”, but also his bottlings of Dolcetto d’Alba (especially his “Rubis”, which is one of my favorites of this wine type).
Roberta Giuraiali Stelzer and Antonio Stelzer, Maso Martis (Photo ©Tom Hyland)
Roberta and Antonio Stelzer, Maso Martis, Trento – I met this couple for the first time in September (thanks to the help of my friend Aurora Endrici) and was won over by their genuine warmth – you get what you see with these two. Their metodo classico Trento DOC sparkling wines are first-rate across the board. It’s impossible for me to select one as my favorite, but their 2012 Brut and Madame Martis 2003 are outstanding wines, sparklers that are vibrant and delicious!
Camilla Lunelli, Ferrari (Photo ©Tom Hyland)
Camilla Lunelli, Ferrari, Trento – Camilla and her siblings – Marcello, Matteo and Alessandro are outstanding ambassadors for not only their amazing sparkling wines, but in reality, for the region of Trento as well as Italy in general. They know how to treat people – with grace, courtesy and class! So many great wines from Ferrari, especially the Perlé Nero (100% Pinot Nero and very Champagne-like) and the Riserva Giulio Ferrari, a stunning wine that is among the three or four finest sparkling wines of Italy.
Orlando Pecchenino (Photo ©Tom Hyland)
Orlando Pecchenino, proprietor/winemaker, Pecchenino, Dogliani - A gentleman farmer, Pecchenino produces beautiful examples of Dolcetto from his immaculate vineyards in Dogliani. His hard work has paid off in the market and the media, but he prefers to let the wines do the talking. He’s very relaxed and confident and it’s always a pleasure spending time with him, whether tasting his latest releases in his cellars or enjoying his wines at a casual lunch. While he is most famous for his “Bricco Botti” Dogliani (a classic), his Barolo “San Giuseppe” from a cru in Monforte is a marvelous wine that is relatively unknown. This is a shame, as it’s a gem (it’s one of the very few 2009 Barolos that I thoroughly enjoyed).
Ilaria Petitto, Donnachiara (Photo ©Tom Hyland)
Ilaria Petitto, proprietor, Donnachiara, Montefalcione, Campania – A friend of mine in Campania jokes with me whenever I talk about the wines of Donnachiara; “I know the real reason you go there,” she says. Ok, let’s be honest, Ilaria Petitto is a strikingly attractive woman, but it’s also her graciousness and warmth – as well as her marvelous wines that make my visits to Donnachiara a true pleasure. Beautiful Greco di Tufo and Fiano di Avellino (especially the new releases from 2012) and now she has introduced special bottlings of these two wines – “Esoterico” Fiano and “Ostinato” Greco – that are totally different than the classic versions, but just as memorable.
Marica Bonomo, Monte del Fra (Photo ©Tom Hyland)
Marica Bonomo, proprietor, Monte del Fra, Sommacampagna, Veneto – Marica is such a nice person, so it’s so wonderful to see so much success come her way. She produces beautiful versions of Valpolicella and Amarone, but it’s her lovely white wine “Ca del Magro”, a Custoza Superiore blended from several varieties that is her shining star. It’s always a pleasure to meet her and talk about her business.
- A Wonderful New Review
- New Entries
- Now available as a Kindle Book!
I’m excited to share some great news about my book Beyond Barolo and Brunello: Italy’s Most Distinctive Wines. The first is about a wonderful new review of my book and the second has to do with new updates to the book itself. Finally, as I’ve had a few people ask, the book is now available on Kindle.
The latest review of my book appears in the January issue of Decanter magazine; it was written by Ian D’Agata, the head of the magazine’s Italian wine team. He has given me a very positive grade; here are some excerpts from the review:
“The book is well written and informative. Anyone who loves Italian wines will enjoy it.”
“Most of Italy’s great or more famous wines are included and Hyland is knowledgeable enough to write about little known gems too… Starting each region with a principal varieties list is a great idea, rather than the useless DOCs and DOCGs. Advice on pairing wine and food from local chefs is also a nice touch.”
Thank you, Ian! I appreciate your kind words (as well as your constructive criticism). Yours is a professional review. (I am especially grateful that you mentioned the input from local chefs on pairing wine and food, as few reviewers to date have mentioned that.
The second edition, so to speak, has just been printed and I’ve included some new wine selections, namely from Umbria (Duca della Corgna Trasimeno Rosso, Cantina Tudernum Grechetto di Todo “Colle Nobile” and Cardeto Orvieto “Donna Armida”) and Campania (Nanni Copè and Luigi Tecce Taurasi “Poliphemo”).
Finally, the book is now available as a Kindle book. You can find the link at the amazon.com website, either under the “books” category or the “kindle” category. The price for the Kindle edition in the US is $17.95; prices vary in other countries according to currency.
Thanks to everyone for supporting my book. For those of you that have yet to purchase a copy – or want to buy an additional copy or two for a gift – I’m offering a 15% discount at the link below for a purchase of the book in paperback (sorry no discount on the Kindle version, but that’s priced lower than the traditional book version anyway).
Go to this link and use this discount code for a 15% savings: C7EXTZKF
Please note that this special discount will only be available until December 31, 2013.
Buon Natale e grazie a tutti!
Verdicchio grapes ready for harvest (Photo ©Tom Hyland)
Here is part three of my favorite wines from my recent Italian trip; this installment is about the best white wines from Marche.
When you talk about white wines from Marche, it’s all about Verdicchio. There are sparkling versions – (some quite, quite good), dry versions, dessert styles and maybe most importantly, older bottlings. I say this as Verdicchio is among the white wines that has the greatest aging potential, not only in Italy, but anywhere (and this includes white Burgundies). I’ll write a post about Verdicchio soon – the wonders of this grape, why it isn’t better known, et al soon, but for now here are notes on a few of the best I recently sampled in the area.
Villa Bucci has become for many, the most famous producer of Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, a Verdicchio from a beautiful, gently hilly area in northern Marche (there is another Verdicchio DOC – Verdicchio di Matelica – that is also quite expressive). The classic 2012 version (2012, as I’ve mentioned in previous posts, is an excellent vintage for white wines throughout Italy), is a beauty, with aromas of acacia flowers, Bosc pear, jasmine and spearmint (the perfumes of a young, unoaked Verdicchio are irresistible) backed by very good depth of fruit, good persistence and very good acidity. Enjoy this over the next 3-5 years.
The Riserva Villa Bucci 2009 is outstanding; matured for two years in older barrels, there is a light creaminess in the aromas that accompany notes of hyacinth and orange blossom – just lovely! Medium-full with excellent concentration, this has outstanding persistence, a long, long finish and lovely finesse. What an outstanding wine! I also tasted three older vintages of this wine: the 2008, 2007 and 2004, each of which was excellent ,with the 2004 offering the greatest complexity, but the 2009 was in my judgment, the finest of all these wines. Look for this wine in a few months, as this continues the ultra impressive track record of this producer with this beautiful wine.
Stefano Antonucci (Photo ©Tom Hyland)
Somehow the wines of Stefano Antonucci from Santa Barbara are not that well known in America; this is a true shame, as these are some of the most vibrant, most distinctive examples of Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi being produced today. I tasted previous vintages in 2012 when I was writing my book on Italian wines and was very impressed, especially with the 2010 Stefano Antonucci Riserva, one of the finest examples of Verdicchio I have ever tasted. The new releases did not disappoint, starting with the 2012 Verdicchio “Le Vaglie,” which is highly aromatic (lilacs, Anjou pear, jasmine), with beautiful varietal focus and is absolutely delicious! For an Verdicchio that runs about $15 retail in the States, this is a steal!
The 2011 Riserva, is richer on the palate and has some oak influence, although there is so much fruit, you might not even notice the wood. The mid-palate is quite lush and there is outstanding persistence; although 2011 was not as acclaimed a vintage as 2010 or 2012, here is proof that the producer is always more important than the vintage. This is beautiful now, but if you can wait another year or two, it will greatly improve and it should peak in 7-10 years – an outstanding wine!
One of the most consistent producers of Verdicchio is Umani-Ronchi; they have received the Tre Bicchieri award from Gambero Rosso on several occasions and their 2009 “Casal di Serra Vecchie Vigne” was named Italy’s Best White Wine of 2012 from this same publication. I tasted te 2010 version of this wine and it is rock-solid with appealing golden apple and spearmint aromas backed by excellent depth of fruit. The wine that really impressed me was the 2009 Verdicchio Riserva “Plenio”; produced from a single vineyard. The name comes from the Latin word for “full,” an apt descriptor for this wine, which is partly aged in steel tanks and partly in large barrels; about 10%-15% of the wine undergoes malolactic fermentation. What a wine this is! Medium-full with excellent concentration and a rich mid-palate, there are aromas of spiced apple and golden flowers along with very good acidity and excellent complexity. 2009 was a marvelous vintage for Verdicchio as the wines are quite rich – in some cases, such as this one, almost fat on the palate – and there is also a distinct minerality to this wine. This was an eye-opener for me; Umani-Ronchi is a large producer, but give enough attention to your wines and source grapes from the finest sites and you can produce great wines; this 2009 Plenio is an example of that; this should peak in 5-7 years, although I may be a bit conservative with that estimate.
A few other examples of Verdicchio of note that I tasted this past September in the area. Sartarelli is a notable producer; their entry level Verdicchio is quite good. Most impressive is the 2010 Balciana, made from late harvest grapes; offering exotic aromas and excellent persistence, this will drink well for another 5-7 years.
From Garofoli, headed by the gracious and always smiling Daria Garofoli, the 2011 “Podium” and the 2006 Gioacchino Garofoli Selezione” are both excellent; the former a first-rate example of Verdiccchio with a rich mid-palate and the latter, a marvelous wine with cinnamon and spice flavors from oak aging; this will drink well for another 5-7 years.
Finally, a shout out to Colonnara, an excellent cooperative producer in Cupramontana, one of the most historic sites for Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, a thank you for a marvelous vertical tasting of their Cuprese bottling. The current 2012 release offers lovely jasmine and lemon zest aromas along with very good depth of fruit and lively acidity; look for this wine to drink well for several years.
I also tasted this wine from the 2010, 2001 and 1991 vintages- each was quite special. The 1991 Riserva – now some 22 years old – was in great condition, with notes of honey and orange blossom in the aromas; displaying marvelous texture and excellent complexity along with vibrant acidity, this is a great wine! It’s also exhibit number one, in my opinion, of how well Verdicchio ages.