Elegance and Value from Franciacorta
There’s a belief in some circles that the wines of Franciacorta are expensive. I’d like to introduce evidence to the contrary with the beautifully made, value-priced offerings from Ronco Calino.
Founded in 1996 by businessman Paolo Radici, Ronco Calino produces several style of Franciacorta, Italy’s most famous metodo classico sparkling wine. Recently, Michael Skurnkik Wines of Syosset, NY, one of America’s leading importers of Italian wines, started to sell these wines in the US; I tasted the three offerings they represent and was quite impressed.
The NV Brut is a blend of 80% Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Nero (note: these are two of the three varieties allowed in a Franciacorta sparkling wine, the other being Pinot Bianco). Aged for twenty-four months on its yeasts, this has a persistent perlage and aromas of Bosc pear, acacia blossoms and citrus fruit. Medium-bodied with good concentration, this has nice length in the mid-palate along with very good acidity and persistence. Nicely balanced, this is a clean, refreshing sparkling wine of very good complexity. This would be a nice aperitif or served as a starter for many meals; it’s wonderful with vegetable risotto. ($30)
Even better is the 2011 Brut Satèn, a sparkling wine of lovely finesse, which is quite appropriate given that the term Satèn means “satin” or “silky.” Regulations for a Satèn in Franciacorta allow only for white grapes; this is 100% Chardonnay, aged on its yeasts for 24 months. Light yellow with a creamy mousse, this offers lovely aromas of green tea, spearmint, lime and peony – how sensual! Medium-full, this has an elegant entry on the palate, very good acidity and notable persistence. This is a lovely Satèn with excellent varietal character and beautiful focus; this is quite flavorful and yet always manages to maintain a delicacy on the palate. Above all, this has impressive complexity, freshness and balance and is quite delicious. At $30, this is an excellent value and certainly the finest example of Satèn I have tasted at anywhere near this price. Enjoy this over the next two to three years; this is ideally paired with most seafood, especially tilapia, sole or sea bass.
Finally, the NV Rosé “Radijan” is, in my opinion, the best of these three sparkling wines from this classy producer. This is 100% Pinot Nero, something not seen very often, as many examples of Franciacorta Rosé have only 30% to 60% of this variety. Displaying a lovely bright copper color, the delicate aromas are quite pretty with notes of strawberry, pear and geranium. This also spent twenty-four months on its yeasts; medium-full, this has a delicate feel on the palate and in the finish. There is very good acidity, impressive persistence and excellent length in the finish; the complexity is first-rate, as is the varietal purity. Enjoy this over the next two to three years with duck breast, lighter poultry or pork. ($33)
I rate the NV Brut with a three-star (very good) rating, while both the Satèn and the Rosé are four-star (excellent) wines to my way of thinking. To have wines of this quality as well as complexity and overall harmony retailing for $30 and $33 a bottle? Well, certainly in this case, Franciacorta is not expensive. If you’ve been waiting to experience this celebrated sparkling wine, but never took the time to do so, here are three notable examples to get you started!