A Superb Vermentino
We’ve moved from summer to autumn; in a few days, we turn the page on September. Temperatures will fall and we’ll get ready for cooler days, which will turn to very cold days before you know it (at least in many places in the Northern Hemisphere, including my home of Chicago).
I mention this as the so-called summer whites will now take a back seat to red wines as well as more weighty, “serious” whites. Yet there are many whites that work all year long; unfortunately too many wine “gurus” think of white wines as lightweight, given a few exceptions such as white Burgundy, California Chardonnay and Grand Cru releases from Alsace, of course.
Hence my praise in today’s post for the 2011 Jankara Vermentino di Gallura. This is a famous wine type from the beautiful island of Sardinia in the Tyrrhenian Sea off Italy’s western coast about the latitude of Lazio. Vermentino is grown in many parts of the island; these wines are known as Vermentino di Sardinia. But the finest examples are the Vermentino di Gallura, from far northeastern Sardinia; vineyards here are very close to the sea and give the wines a salty edge in the finish; the rocky soils lend a distinct minerality.
The Jankara, from a relatively new estate, is a marvelous examples of Vermentino di Gallura, especially this new release from 2011. I tasted the 2010, which I enjoyed, but while it was clean and well made, it lacked a vibrancy, an edge that would lift it above the average; to be fair to the owners, that growing season was not the most favorable. However, the 2011 is a superior wine, an exceptional Vermentino. Offering lovely aromas of melon, kiwi and lilacs, this is very rich on the palate, while the finish is ultra long with excellent persistence. There is textbook lively acidity and beautiful varietal character with a nice sensation of minerality. This is a delicious white of great balance and complexity; pair this with most shellfish – I especially love it with grilled shrimp – and enjoy it now or over the next two to three years, that is, if you can resist its marvelous charms right now!
I mentioned summer time is gone and so are summer whites. It’s clear that a first-rate example of Vermentino di Gallura, such as the 2011 from Jankara is so much more than a simple summer quaffer. It’s a marvelous white wine that can stand up to many foods, even lobster. So enjoy this year round!
Imported by Empson, USA, this has a suggested retail of $24.99.